Caterpillars, loopers, and worms, especially green loopers, tomato hornworms, and cabbage worms, are hated by many gardeners. However, butterflies, with the possible exception of the white cabbage butterflies, are the floating flowers of the garden. So why kill them all? In fact, why not encourage them? Gardeners who plant meadows filled with wildflowers often provide perfect habitats and never notice the depredations of the attendant caterpillars, a very important stage in the butterfly life cycle.

If you like Swallowtail butterflies, grow parsley (Petroselinum crispum)and sweet fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), plenty of it, for both you and them. The caterpillars are attractively striped and not overly voracious. They do, however, like willow trees, poplars, and sycamores. If you have grown trees you're likely to have a resident population already.

Monarch butterflies can be attracted by growing butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa). Large-flowered passion vine will attract Gulf fritillary, a red-orange butterfly with black-to-brown markings and silver spots under the wings. The fuzzy black caterpillars will decimate leaves of passion vine, but not touch much else in the garden. The mourning cloak butterfly is attracted to newly mown lawns, and is often fearless enough to sit on a gardener's moist outstretched palm. Consider adding butterfly-attracting specimens to enhance your garden and attract these beautiful additions to your landscape.

By Tamara Galbraith

Ok, hold up a trowel if you know what USDA Hardiness Zone you're in.

As a gardener, knowing your zone is one of the most basic and important pieces of information you can possess. Your hardiness zone tells you what kinds of plants grow well in your area, and when to plant, according to your climate.

Originally developed in 1960, the USDA Hardiness Zone Map divides North America into 11 separate zones. There are also two 'subzones,' labeled "a" and "b" within zones 2 through 10. The map is divided based on the average annual minimum temperature range, by increments of 5 degrees.

For example, the average yearly minimum temp for zone 8a is 10-15° F. The average yearly minimum temp for zone 8b is 15-20° F.

So, when you read a description for a plant that says it grows in Zones 3-8, and you know you're in Zone 7, it is likely the plant will do well in your neck of the woods.

The rules can be bent in either direction. You can create heated "micro-climates" in your landscape (a south-facing sunny site against a brick wall, for example) and artificially raise your zone a whole step. Conversely, warm climate gardeners can put a plant that prefers cooler temps in complete shade, in some cases.

Of course, other cultural and environmental issues contribute to your plants' well-being, so while the USDA Hardiness Zone map is a great tool, it is not foolproof and should be looked at as only a guide. Several U.S. states also have their own hardiness maps, called the Sunset Western Climate Zones, which are much more detailed. The American Horticultural Society also recently came out with a Heat Zone Map, sort of the opposite of the USDA Hardiness Zone map. The Heat Zone Map bases the zones on the average number of days each year that a given region experiences temperatures over 86° F.

Confused by all these zones and maps? Yeah, me too sometimes. But being a good gardener means also being an educated gardener. In addition to your local nursery experts, several sources out on the Web will tell you all you need to know about your area and the plants that do well there.

Web Sources:
USDA Zone Map
Heat Zone Map

• New easy to use applicator
• Applies dry
• Stops weeds before they start for a beautiful weed-free garden
• For use around flowers, vegetables, trees and shrubs

Perennials are plants that live year after year. Trees and shrubs are perennial. Most garden flowers are herbaceous perennials. This means the tops of the plants (the leaves, stems, and flowers) die back to the ground each fall with the first frost or freeze. The roots persist through the winter, and every spring new plant tops arise. Any plant that lives through the winter is said to be hardy. Follow our maintenance tips below to ensure that you will enjoy the blooms year after year.

Watering. Since herbaceous perennials grow back from the roots every year, it is important to encourage healthy, deep roots. Proper watering promotes good root development. Make sure that all the roots are reached when watering. Do not rely on summer rainfall to keep flower beds watered; plan from the beginning to irrigate them. When watering, moisten the entire bed thoroughly but do not water so heavily that the soil becomes soggy. After watering, allow the soil to dry moderately before watering again. A soaker hose is excellent for watering beds. Water from the soaker hose seeps directly into the soil without waste and without splashing leaves and flowers. The slow-moving water does not disturb the soil or reduce its capacity to absorb water. Water wands and drip systems are also good. Sprinklers are not as effective as soaker hoses. Water from sprinklers wets the flowers and foliage, making them susceptible to diseases. Soil structure may be destroyed by the impact of water drops falling on its surface; the soil may puddle or crust, preventing free entry of water and air. The least effective method for watering is with a hand-held nozzle. Watering with a nozzle has all the objections of watering with a sprinkler. In addition, gardeners seldom are patient enough to do a thorough job of watering with a nozzle; not enough water is applied, and the water that is applied is usually poorly distributed over the bed.

Mulching. Mulches are very useful for maintaining uniform moisture conditions and reducing weeds in the garden. Soil temperatures are modified by mulches to various degrees. Organic mulches may add some nutrients and humus to the soil, improving its tilth and moisture-holding capacity. Bark, pine needles, and shredded leaves are common organic mulches used in perennial beds. Most organic mulches should be applied after plants are well-established and when there is reasonably good soil moisture. A rule of thumb for perennial borders is to apply mulch in early spring to get good weed control. Inorganic mulches, such as plastic films and paper, are applied prior to planting. Black plastic and similar materials should be spread on land that has been completely prepared for planting and has a high moisture level. All mulches require care to keep them attractive.

Weeding. Mulching is the best weed control for most perennials, along with hand-weeding when needed.

Fertilizing. Regular fertilization is necessary. Perennial plantings can rob the soil of its natural fertility. However, do not fertilize perennials heavily. A light fertilization program gives a continuous supply of nutrients to produce healthy plants. Repeat twice at 6 week intervals. This should be enough to carry plants through the summer. Apply another treatment of fertilizer to late-blooming plants in late summer. Always water the bed after applying fertilizer. This will wash the fertilizer off the foliage and prevent burn. It will also make fertilizer available to the plants immediately.

Deadheading. After perennials have bloomed, spent flowers should be removed. Cut flower stems down to a healthy leaf, or to the ground if there are no more buds. This will keep the beds looking neat and will prevent plants from wasting energy setting seed. Numerous perennials, such as delphiniums, can be forced to reblossom if cut back severely after the first bloom.

Disbudding. To gain large blooms from perennials, as opposed to more numerous but smaller blooms, plants can be disbudded. In disbudding, small side buds are removed, allowing the plant to concentrate its energy to produce one or a few large blooms. Peonies and chrysanthemums are examples of plants which are often disbudded.

Staking. Most erect perennials are top-heavy, and taller ones need staking. If plants fall over, the stem will function poorly where it has been bent. If the stem is cracked, disease organisms can penetrate the break. Stake plants when you set them out so they will grow to cover the stakes. When staked, tall perennials can better withstand hard, driving rain and wind.

Select stakes that will be 6 to 12 inches shorter than the height of the grown plant. Place stakes behind the plants and sink them into the ground far enough to be firm. Loosely tie plants to the stakes, using paper covered wire, plastic, or other soft material. Tie the plant by making a double loop of the wire with one loop around the plant and the other around the stake. Never loop the tie around both stake and plant. The plant will hang to one side and the wire may girdle the stem. Add ties as the stem lengthens.

Fall Care. In the fall, after the foliage of perennials has died down, remove dead leaves, stems, and spent flowers. These materials often harbor insects and disease-causing organisms. Apply winter mulch after the soil temperature has dropped.

Controlling Insects and Diseases. Although perennials in general are healthy plants, there are occasionally some problems. It is advisable to select resistant varieties. Plant perennials in conditions of light, wind, spacing, and soil textures which are suited to them. Remove spent flowers, dead leaves, and other plant litter, as these serve as a source of re-infestation. It is advisable to know the major insect and disease pests (if any) of each specific plant type grown, so that problems can be correctly diagnosed and treated if they arise.

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